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2018年4月 7日 (土)

The history of Tonkotsu ramen in Japan

Tonkotsu ramen is a ramen dish that originated in Kurume City, Fukuoka Prefecture on the Kyushu island of Japan, and it is a specialty dish in Fukuoka and Kyushu. The soup broth for Tonkotsu ramen is based upon pork bones, and "tonkotsu" means 豚骨 "pork bones" in Japanese. The soup broth is prepared by boiling pork bones in water for a significant amount of time, up to six to eight hours, and the broth is typically very cloudy in appearance with a hearty pork flavor and a creamy consistency that rivals milk, melted butter or gravy. Tonkotsu ramen is one of the popular Japanese food and now spreading around the world, facilitate not only Japanese but also many country’s people. In this blog, I summarize the history of Tonkotsu ramen and introduce this delicious food had been developed by many efforts of Chinese and Japanese persons.
Until 19th century, “Udon” and “Soba” were the most populated and only noodles dishes in Japan. In 1899, Chinese migrant Mr. Chen Ping-Shung opened a Chinese restaurant named “Shikairo” in Nagasaki-City. Here, Chen developed original noodle dish so-called “Champon” which improved Chinese baitang (white water) which has a thick broth made from boiling pork bones, fat, and collagen over high heat for many hours. This Champon became a reputation within Kyushu Island as a luxury Chinese noodle dish with plenty of seafoods. Besides, In 1910, ramen which improved soy sauce soup in Yokohama-City, main land of Japan became popular. Both Champon and Soy Sauce Ramen were started by the Chinese migrants and facilitated Japanese people.
Chanpon00

Shikairou_restraunt

Mr. Tokio MIYAMOTO from Shimabara-City, Nagasaki Prefecture had training the recipe of soy sauce ramen in Yokohama-City, he inspire the idea for the soup taken from Champon's pig bones instead of soy source because he could eat delicious Champon from childhood. This moment, Tonkotsu soup ramen born in Japan. However, Tonkotsu soup at this time was not crowded, it was a clear soup due to traditional mild boiling recipe. Mr. MIYAMOTO opened a stall style food court "Nanking- Senryo" in front of Nishitetsu Kurume Station in Kurume City, Fukuoka Prefecture in 1937.
Kyushu_island

After a decade, Mr. Katsumi SUGINO in Kurume-City, opened a stall style food court named "39" also in Kurume, in 1947. Mr. SUGINO has a close relationship with Mr. MIYAMOTO, and also the shop name dedicated to him (MIYAMOTO's birth was Meiji 39th =1906) and 39 Japanese pronunciation "3 = san, 9 = qi" is closely related English "Thank you”. At that time "39" shop was a soup with a sense of transparency, due to a mild boiled pork bone, like "Nanjing - Senryo". One day, when Mr. SUGINO take over soup boiling preperation for his mother and leave to shop several hours. After he go home, the mother made a mistake owing to the soup boiled up over and became very crowded due to melt everything. Since there is no time to open the shop, and no recovery is possible. In this day, he offered violently turbid soup of ramen. Unexpectedly, this milky soup got a high evaluation that was delicious from the customers drank this soup. After that, strongly boiled and turbid Tonkotsu soup became main style in his shop. In this time, current Tonkotsu ramen "white crowded pig bones soup" was born. Mr. SUGINO taught the Tonkotsu recipe to everyone who would like to open ramen restaurant and crowded pig bone soup spread to various parts of Kyushu Island. Mr. SUGINO moved to Kokura- City, Fukuoka prefecture in 1951.
Ramen_history_flow

39_ramen_original

Until 1970 's, Tonkotsu ramen was only eaten in Kyushu area. In so-called just local foods, most of Japan was dominated by soy sauce or miso ramen. In the 1970s, ramen expanded the market in the form of instant noodles. House food ltd, a major food company in Japan, built a ramen factory in Koga City, Fukuoka prefecture. In 1978, Fukuoka factory director wonder that, "Employees do not eat ramen in this factory dining room, its maybe soy sauce taste does not match Kyushu people, Kyushu people like pork bone taste”. As a result, house foods ltd also started to develop Kyushu style pork born soup ramen at the branch manager 's proposal, "We will make products that can be accepted in Kyushu people." Actually, in Kyushu, the share of soy sauce ramen sold by house foods ltd was very low. House food ltd development team thoroughly studied Kyushu's pig bone ramen, a new product "Umakka-chan" was born. "Umaka-chan" is the meaning of Hakata dialect "It's delicious". This product was launched in 1979, and this product triggered introduction of pig bone ramen throughout Japan.


House_food_umakka_chan


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